Saturday 19 September 2009

Bye bye Europe

Hello everyone.

Just before we pulled into the station yesterday we passed the Europe/Asia border (nothing's really changed yet though). We arrived in Ekaterinburg, Russia's 5th largest city last night and with help from our overnight train buddy Oslo we hailed a random Lada that took us to our hotel where, to our surprise, they checked us in.

Bliss.

The surprise was due to the fact that in Moscow we had similar (worse) problems than in St Petersburg with our hotel. Suffice to say that we spent a day of our short stay with rucksacks on wandering around the city looking for a place to stay. We've now been in two separate hostels so are feeling proper hardcore travellers. I think we were lucky - Moscow is notoriously difficult to find accommodation and supposedly the most expensive city in the world.

Red Square, the Kremlin and St Basil's were all great as was wandering through GUM - the posh designer shopping arcade. Moscow is unbelievably busy with traffic. It can slightly spoil some of its charm - but I suppose this is true of many Capitals - of which Moscow is identifiably one.

We've met some really lovely people who've been really helpful. Still surprised about how few Europeans or other foreigners are here - only heard English spoken a few times - although more than St Petersburg. More Americans, Japanese and French than English (although there was a lady from Kent we overheard in the Kremlin while we waited for one of the stunning Cathedrals). Its mostly "older" people on tours here.

The train was well above both our expectations - I think it was brand new - the bedding seemed untouched and Jo was happy with the state of the toilets. Our unhealthy picnic of peanut butter (Emma - we crumbled in the end) and crisp butties was supplemented by lots of tea and coffee - perhaps the reason for a late night reading.

Ekaterinburg is a quick stop. Nicer than we expected, but we're really just passing through (Sorry Oslo). Another night on the train tonight and Novosibirsk tomorrow...

Saturday 12 September 2009

From Russia with love

Sitting in a hot internet cafe in St Petersburg on Novsky Proskpekt. I will not try to write in cyrillic as we are still trying to learn - pretty tricky understanding stuff here already.

So, where did we leave things?

We arrived in Helsinki, Finland after a noisy smelly night on the ferry on a deck somewhere under the water line (!) so not as bright eyed as we hoped. We drew many comparisons with Manchester but didn't really "get" Helsinki as much of a tourist town (even though it seems to have all the things you would expect). We spent the last day out on one of the islands, where there was an old sea fortress now a World Heritage site and a quiet spot to drift around (and sample the locally brewed White Beer).

An uneventful 8 hour train journey across the border meant we finally made it to Russia (with all the worries about visas, this was all incredibly smooth). However St Petersburg did not start well....

A very busy and hectic place (particularly after Helsinki) we were a bit overwhelmed with the unfamiliar signs etc and wandered about a bit in a daze. After getting to within walking distance of our "hotel" it took us 2 1/2 hours to find the place (after phoning for directions). It was weird. A single flat on the first floor of a very run down old residential block set back and invisible from the main road. Even better, after walking in to the un-signed reception we found they were overbooked and we spent another hour trying to find and get checked into their partner hotel in an even more strange location. But, we made it. Even got out to find great food at the Idiot's Cafe and checked out the more outstanding buildings in evening light.

St Petersburg is amazing in its grandure, but quite mad and tricky for English speakers. Starting to learn a few words out of necessity (had to buy tickets from the train station for the Moscow leg tomorrow - lots of queueing). Everything is just so big (including the art collection of the Hermitage Museum - Picassos, Van Goghs etc).

Spent the day as proper tourists - found the only English tour boat that takes you round the rivers and canals of the "Venice of the North" and wandered around (as per usual) to take in the hundreds of beautiful palaces (Palaced out now) and seen our first "Onion church" in Russia (to be fair there was one in Helsinki). Stunning. Weather has been amazing according to the guide - 30 days sun all year is the norm.

Lots more photos to post later.

Going back to the "boutique business hotel" on floor 7 in our funny building in a minute (at least we get a good view) and off to Moskva tomorrow lunchtime...

Monday 7 September 2009

Waiting for the ferry


Ferry Sunset, originally uploaded by NickIsConfused.

We're sitting in Mariehamn in Åland waiting for the ferry to arrive to complete our journey to Helsinki, Finland.

This was the stunning view from the back of the ferry last night which slightly made up for our sad departure from Stockholm where we'd spent the last couple of nights. My favourite place is still Stor Torget in Gamla Stan.

We spent today peacefully reading, drifting and playing crazy golf. A sarene day only punctuated by Jo's unfortunate union with a big piece of invisible window. We are hoping the bruise doesn't get too big - poor thing.

A night sleeping on the ferry ahead and we'll wake up refreshed and ready for Finland.

I've finally posted the first few photos

All Roads may lead to Rome...

This was the starting point for the journey. And from platform 0 (very Harry Potter-esque)

Saturday 5 September 2009

Scandinavia

A new definition of a late night for us - its 11:20 which is crazy late!

I'm at another hotel computer writing this. This one is on a boat - the Malardrotningen in Stockholm - which is where we're staying for a couple of nights before heading off into the Baltic archeapelago tomorrow.

We had another bout in Copenhagen - lots of walking and got to see the mermaid (which most people are generally slightly disappointed about). The weather had brightened up so it made it a lot nicer to stroll around randomly (as we are prone to doing). Found a vegetarian restaurant off the listings that wasn't in reality a steakhouse so we got fed something other than cheese butties :)

In the morning we were straight on the train into Sweden, past my old haunt - Lund - couldnät stop beaming as we stopped in the station and I now wish we'd set aside a day to visit the town I lived in for 3 months right after our wedding.

Arrived in Stockolm yesterday and it is gorgeous. It seems few Brits come here (maybe because of the expense or the distance) but it is stunning. The most waterfront of anywhere I've been, and a great mixture of Grand and cute, posh and relaxed. We are staying on the boat right on the island housing the old town - Gamla Stan - a miriad of little streets with shops, bars and restaurants - its gorgeous. I miss Sweden for being able to sit outside a bar in the evening wrapped in a blanket and watching the life happen around you.

Tomorrow we get a last chance at Stor torget and then off to the islands...

Thursday 3 September 2009

First Overnight train journey survived

Hello everyone,

I'm standing in a hotel in Copenhagen after having washed last night's journey off me.
We spent last night on the overnight train from Cologne to Copenhagen - a sleepy 12 hour journey with a lovely lady who was very quiet until she fell asleep(!)

So far, since leaving Stockport, we have taken 11 trains by Jo's count. Pretty impressive for day 3. London was so gorgeous on Sunday afternoon - spent on my mum and Dad's boat on the Thames - that it was a wrench when we crossed the Channel to find Brussels was suffering from Manchester weather. That cleared up though and we found enough places to eat and drink that we soon warmed to its charms (particularly Mannequin Pis - Jo's favourite) The view from the Palace of Justice over the city in the sun on Tuesday was fantastic and we managed to eat cheese, chocolate, waffles and drink beer during our short stay. Highly recommend 'de la Morte Subite' bar !!

We've already lost the battle against the weather here and got drenched through. Jo is understandably taking some time to recover before we climb back into wet clothes and head out with ponchos to try to see the little Mermaid as we are only in Denmark for 24 hours. Then off to Sweden.

Better go and get sorted - time's a wasting. Will try to sort out photos soon.

Nick & Jo.